The Other Side of Heaven

In the very, VERY early morning hours of December 14, Garth and I woke up, got dressed in our missionary clothes, and headed to the airport. We boarded a small plane and headed north. Two hours later we landed in Niuatoputapu.....or as Elder Kolipoki (that's Tonganese for Groberg) called it, the Other Side of Heaven.

Looking down at the Lagoon on Tongatapu as we head north

The runway in Niuatoputapu

Our airplane

Niuatoputapu "International" Airport

While in Niuatoputapu we made some dear friends, met some amazing people, saw some beautiful, breathtaking sites, some heartbreaking sites, and learned some important lessons.

The Lino family: Suli Lefai (family friend), 'Onesi Lino, Sister Mikaila Lino, Pres. Tevita Lino (district president), Salesi Lino, and Pres. Hefa (branch president of Hihifo branch)

Sister Lino and the meal she prepared after our arrival

The first thing we learned......don't go to the Niua's in December. Or maybe not any time between July and February. It is HOT. And humid. I learned even my knees can sweat. Who knew? Also, you shouldn't wear mascara - it just melts. Seriously! We thought we were hot on Tongatapu. We didn't really know what hot was until coming here. One of the elders here (there are four – Elders King, Kulu, Drake and Lotima) told us when he first got here he would take a cold shower before going to bed in an effort to cool off. An hour later he'd wake up and take another cold shower because he was so hot and sweaty again. He'd get about another hour of sleep before he would be awakened once again from the heat and humidity. He said he finally gave up because he realized he would never not (sorry about the double negative) be hot and sweaty ever again. That's how it is here for much of the year. So...next time I'll come during the winter!!

Elder Drake, Elder Lotima, Sister Hamblin, Elder Kulu, and Elder King

Another lesson learned....the people here are amazing. They have to be very self sufficient. The ferry comes to Niuatoputapu once a month, and the plane once a week......if they're lucky. There are three small villages....Hihifo, Vaipoa and Falehau....which are all located on the northern side of the island. The people have to rely on their own ingenuity and survival skills, because sometimes the boats or planes don't make it.

Falehau on the left, looking towards the only hill on Niuatoputapu

The villages of Hihifo, Vaipoa, and Falehau (in order from bottom of picture to the top) are on the left side of the island. Tafahi is the volcanic island in the background.

The tsunami that did so much destruction in Malaysia in 2009 also hit the Niua's. The coast is flat, and then starts a slight incline from the beach inward, with a large hill in the middle of the island. Sister Lino, the wife of the district president, told us how just about day break they saw people running past up the hill because the ocean was moving inland. She and her children, along with others on the island, ran towards 'uta (the bush) and up to the top of the hill. As I looked at the impenetrable wall of foliage they had to run through, I asked if there were trails they followed. She said, no, there are no trails. They just ran, many of them barefoot, through the jungle until they reached the top of the hill. They stayed on the hill, camped in the open, with only the clothes on their back, for one week before they could come down. Nine people were killed, including two children. The tsunami destroyed almost everything within about ½ mile of the beach. All vegetation was gone. All but three buildings within the path of the tsunami were destroyed...homes, churches, businesses. The three buildings which remained standing were built by Elder Tukuafu, the former mission president who was just released this July, and currently an area authority seventy. He is also a builder responsible for building most of the chapels in Tonga. He built two homes which were undamaged, and a hall for the high school, which was undamaged and used by government officials who came to the island in the aftermath of the tsunami. No one is quite sure why only these buildings were not destroyed, but they are still in use today.

The water came around the Lino's house, but not in the house. And it came up to the fence of the church property in Hihifo. The Lino's live on the same street as the church, about ¼ mile east.

The church in Hihifo was turned into a hospital since the hospital was destroyed by the tsunami. Two sister missionaries and Sister Lino worked as nurses, the two nurses hired by the government having fled. When the government officials finally got to the island, they assumed that these LDS women were the nurses. The two sister missionaries were told by Salt Lake that they must return to the US, but the government asked for an exception as one of them had some nursing experience, and these three women were the only “nurses” working in the hospital. So, they stayed. A few months after the tsunami the hospital was moved to a building of the primary school in Falehau, where it is still in operation. The government of Tonga promised they would build a new hospital. Four years later the people of Niuatoputapu are still waiting.

The former hospital stands empty and unusable since the tsunami.

The primary school in Falehau - the building on the right was turned into the hospital, and still operates as such today.

Church leaders told the members of the church if they would be obedient and continue to follow what the prophet told them, the land would be blessed and would grow things not ever grown on the island before, and the people would be able to grow the food they needed to feed themselves and their families. Today bananas in several varieties grow, pele (a shrub-like plant grown for its leaves, which are similar in texture to chard or collard greens) grows wild, tomatoes grow wild, papayas grow year round. Fish, lobster, crab, and other sea life are abundant.

On the first anniversary after the tsunami the island held a commemoration. The religious leaders of all the churches on the island were invited to speak. Pres. Lilo, the LDS district president, spoke first. He said that tsunami had been a blessing to the island. The people who had lost homes had brand new homes built for them up higher on the island. Food was plentiful. Where once the land had been barren, trees in all varieties grew forming a thick wall of green, once again blocking the sea from view up island. He told the people they should be thankful to Heavenly Father for providing for them so well.

The next religious speakers spoke of how the destruction was caused because of the wickedness of the people, God was angry with them, and they needed to repent.

The last speaker was a representative sent by the Pope. When he spoke, he said that they all should have gone home after the first speaker – Pres. Lino, because what he spoke was true.

This island can be a difficult place to live – there are few people, they are far from the rest of their country (about 400 nautical miles from Tongatapu), they are isolated and have to be able to take care of themselves. But it is also a beautiful island. The people are strong and resourceful. Those who were obedient and followed the prophet have been blessed....they have been able grow produce they never had been able to grow before, they have been able to raise pigs, chickens and goats and provide for their families. I am certainly going to have to go on a diet when I get back to Tongatapu! We have had papaya, oranges, vi (a fruit similar in looks and taste to a green apple), fish, lobster, pineapple pie, keke vai (Tongan unleavened pancakes), 'ota (raw fish, tomatoes, onions in coconut milk and lime juice – YUM!!), chocolate cake, Simione's pancakes (just like pancakes from home), Niua chocolate (citrus leaves – orange or lime or lemon – steeped in hot water and sweetened – delicious!), fresh limade, all provided by Pres and Sister Lino, and the two branch presidents and their families. Sister Lino teases me that I'm going to have to add three or four strips to my kiekie when I get back, and I'm sure she's not far from the truth.

Our itinerary had as scheduled to leave Niuatoputapu the afternoon of December 18. Today is December 21....and we are still on Niuatoputapu. Our original flight back home was canceled because Real Tonga ran out of fuel. So, all flights for December 18 were canceled. So, we were told maybe December 19. Then the 20^th. Well, maybe 21^st. Every day we hear the airplane is coming for us. We run to the airport....and wait. Only to find the flight has been canceled.....again. There were mechanical problems. They thought the problems were fixed, so were going to do a trial flight to Ha'apai. If all went well they'd pick us up the next morning. Or, the weather did not look good. Yes, the flight is on...for sure....tomorrow at 6:00 a.m. So sorry, it's been delayed until 1:00 p.m. Sorry, it's been canceled. Maybe tomorrow. The interesting thing is, the king is vacationing in Ha'apai, and all of the problems with the plane seem to be happening in Ha'apai. Coincidence?

So, the ferry gets in tomorrow morning (Sunday), and we have reservations on it. It isn't even as big as our smallest ferries in Alaska, and depending on weather, best case scenerio is we'll be to Tongatapu in two days. The boat is scheduled to come here first, then to Niuafo'ou (weather permitting), then onto Vava'u, Ha'apai, and arrive in Nuku'alofa Christmas morning at 10:00 a.m. It was supposed to be here yesterday (the 20^th), and we hear there is bad weather in Niuafo'ou (it's been raining HARD here this afternoon), so I'm sure the boat will be an adventure all by itself. Updates to follow :)

Another lesson learned.....our plans are not always Heavenly Father's plans. His ways ARE mysterious.

One of the first things we did when we got to the islands was to visit the hospital. Things we in the US take for granted while staying in the hospital, are not found in hospitals here in Tonga. Families of patients furnish bedding, meals, and take care of the patient until they are released. But many of the families here in Niuatoputapu cannot even furnish basic items such as bedding or towels. Their power source is a solar panel which is only powerful enough to furnish lighting for part of the night. Their generator does not work at all, so their only power source at this time is the solar panel. There is no phone service at the hospital. In order to receive phone calls they run a cell phone up a pole, and when it rings they pull it down and run to the wharf, the only sure place where cell service is available. They sterilize their instruments by boiling them in a pot of water. They have to wrap their sterile instruments in drapes made of old, torn up sheets. We told the “doctor” who is a medical assistant, that if there was any way we could help, we'd like to do so.

While sitting frustrated at our inability to get back home, we had another opportunity to visit the hospital once again. Lyall, the medical assistant, was able to give us a list of things they needed. To show their gratitude for our help, the hospital staff presented Garth and I, and President and Sister Tupou, with kahoua's (Tongan leis) made from fao (the leaves of a plant which have been dried, then soaked in sea water, then cut into narrow (1/8-inch wide) strips, then woven together) and pueki shells (only found on Niuatoputapu). They gave Sister Tupou and I earrings made from pueki shells, and a shell pendant necklace. They told us that not even the government officials had visited the hospital since the tsunami. Their listed items will be easy for us to obtain and will cost relatively little for the help they will bring to this small hospital.

Back row: Sister Lino, Pres Lino, Sam Tanaki, Lilo Kohinoa, Lelu Tupou, 'Ana Hakaumotu. Front row: Sister Tupou, Pres. Tupou, Lyall Ika (medical assistant)

Friday morning as we were getting ready to leave for the airport we heard that Thursday night a young 15-year-old boy had been accidentally killed by another 15-year-old boy in a fist fight. The boy who had been killed had taken something that belonged to the other boy and had damaged it, which instigated the fight. The boy who was killed was hit in the chest over the heart, perhaps causing a vessel to rupture, and he bled out. I asked what would happen to the boy who had killed the other, and was told that his father was disciplining his son – using corporal punishment. Apparently it was so bad that the police officer had to step in and pull the father off. We were saddened to think that our trip to this beautiful island was ending with such a terrible loss.

And then our flight was canceled.

That evening while Sister Tupou and I were walking to the store to get some soda (we used up all the bottled water on the island during our stay), the police officer saw us and stopped, asking us to get into his pickup because he needed help with the boy in the front seat. I did not know anything about the police officer, other than he liked to come play tennis on the church's tennis courts. So, I wasn't about to get in the truck. I told him that I did not know the boy, and asked how we could help him. He pulled over and told us that this was the boy who had accidentally killed another boy the night before. I told him that he should bring the boy to the church where Pres. Tupou, who spoke Tongan, was, and that we would be glad to help however we could.

Later that evening they showed up at the church. The police officer (the only one on the island – and not a member of the church) told us that he was worried about the boy because he was so depressed, and feared he might take his own life. He did not know what to do, and the thought came to him that he should bring him to the missionaries – us. But, if he did so he knew the news would spread over the whole island that he had brought this boy to the Mormons. So, he did not come. Then late that afternoon he saw Sister Tupou and I, and decided right then that he needed to bring the boy to see us.

When the police officer and the boy showed up at the church we hugged the boy and Pres. Tupou and Garth taught him in simple terms of the atonement, repentance, of the Lord's love for him. Garth told him that there would be dark nights, there would people who would be unkind to him, that times would be hard. But, he had a choice...either he could look up and move forward, or look down to darkness. The choice was his. Pres. Tupou taught him of the steps of repentance, and challenged him to ask forgiveness of the family of the boy who died, and of his own family. They both taught him about Christ's sacrifice in the Garden of Gethsemane and on the cross, so that we could live again and be forgiven of our sins – even this sin. They told him that the boy who died was alive! That if he could communicate with us, he would tell this boy of his love for him, that he forgave him.

This poor boy was so depressed that he spoke very little, looked down most of the time. You could see the weight of the world on his shoulders. We found that there is no jail on the island and that this boy was staying with the police office and his family.

This morning (after learning that our early morning flight was again postponed) the police officer stopped by again with the boy, to report back on the assignment given to the boy to seek forgiveness from his family and from the other boy's family. This morning he was smiling, his posture was more erect, his eyes were brighter. He had gone to both families and told them he realized he had a responsibility and was willing to do whatever he needed to make things right. Both families responded favorably. The mother of the boy who died had no desire to press charges. She'd had an experience with her son the day of his death that had convinced her that it was his time to die. She related that he was an unhappy boy most of his life. But, the day he died he woke up, was happy and singing, told his mother he needed clean clothes because he was going to take a little trip. She said it was the first time she could remember that he was happy.

So, although we wish we were in our own homes and not “camping out” in the church, we realize that the Lord was able to use us as instruments to help bring comfort and help to some of his children. What an amazing, humbling feeling to know that the Lord has enough confidence in us to use us to help those he loves. I feel like like the Book of Mormon prophet, Ammon, who after having success teaching among the Lamonites, expressed to his brothers,

“My brothers and my brethren, behold I say unto you, how great reason have we to rejoice; for could we have supposed when we started from the land of Zarahemla that God would have granted unto us such great blessings?”

“And now, I ask, what great blessings has he bestowed upon us? Can ye tell?”

Behold, I answer for you; for our brethren, the Lamanites, were in darkness, yea, even in the darkest abyss, but behold, how many of them are brought to behold the marvelous light of God! And this is the blessing which hath been bestowed upon us, that we have been made instruments in the hands of God to bring about this great work.”

The little discomfort we have experienced is but a moment. The help, comfort and knowledge that we were able to give is what it's all about...it's why we're here in Tonga. I'm thankful I was here to help in some very, very small way. My life will be forever blessed because of these experiences.

There were so many other things we did and saw on this trip. And because a picture says more than words, here are a few pictures from the Other Side of Heaven.

The chapel at Hihifo - set up for our visit

Suli and Sister Lino working hard in the kitchen at the church. Always taking care of us :)

The chapel in Hihifo (on the left). Missionary MQ (on the right) was the original chapel.

Sione's Guest House - where Garth and I stayed five nights

Our bed - yes we used the mosquito netting - at Sione's Guest House

Our bedroom at Sione's Guest House

The chapel at Vaipoa - dedicated by Pres. Groberg when he was mission president in Tonga

Fao - drying. Used to make kiekie's and ta'ovalas

The fao plant

Patele Siou - "Padre Joe" - and his pigs (below) He owns the most pigs in Niutatoputapu

A Tongan "taxi"

For my dad - horses on  Niutatoputapu

'Elili - sea snails - Delicious

Coconut crab

The "baptismal font" on Niuatoputapu

A Vi (pronounced vee) tree - similar to a green apple - a little tart, a little sweet. Makes delicious otai!!

Women lalanga - preparing fao

A day on Kolipoki island - Elder Groberg's island

Kolipoki Island

The missionaries, The Lino family, Pres. Hefa, the Tupou's, and us had a delightful morning on Kolipoki Island

Lui Lino up a coconut tree

And here come the coconuts!!

Garth drinking the juice from a green coconut - "Tongan 7-up"

Sister Lino

Our shadows as we rode in the back, the front, and on top of our little boat that took us to Kolipoki Island.

The villagers of Vaipoa were having a reunion, and they all - yes, ALL - every man, woman and child, came to to the church at Hihifo and danced for us. Here are some of the faces I loved most.

  An afternoon of fishing - and eating fish.

tuli 'aua - cathing 'aua (the name of the fish) by running. Two people run with the net - away from each other - forming a circle, while others run toward the net opening chasing the fish into the net

Picking the net of the 'aua 

'Aua

Preparing the 'aua to eat

Scale, remove the head, guts, and fins, squeeze with lime juice - and....

Eat the 'aua - YUM!!

Missionaries heading home

Catching up - Part 3 - Liahona Graduation, and oh yea, eating!!! Again!!!

School is ending for the summer (does it seem weird to anyone else that summer is in November, December, and January?) and that means GRADUATION. They do graduation here in a big way.

This past Thursday we attended the graduation dance. They have tables set up all around the gym, all

decorated with tablecloths and beautiful centerpieces, and the chairs covered with cloth covers and big bows. These are for the graduates and their dates. Then.....along the outside wall they have chairs about three or four rows deep...between the outer walls and the tables. These chairs are for the parents!! Yes, parents attend the dances here – well, at least the graduation dance.

The set Elder Meyers built

Once all the parents are seated, the graduates and their dates come through a back door, up onto the back of the stage behind a beautiful set build especially for the dance, and then out onto the stage where they're introduced. Then they walk down stairs onto the gym floor, pause and pose for pictures (Tongan's do NOT do candid photos – if they see a camera they are posing!!), and then are led to their assigned table.

'Ota Tupou (in the gold dress) - Vaesiu's niece - doing the Promenade

Once all the graduates have been introduced and are seated, music starts, and they all do an elaborate promenade. I think the promenade took about 10 minutes.....they walked around the outside of the gym in pairs, then four abreast, then eight abreast, then formed lines and weaved in and out of each other. It was really something.

Dipika - our cute little Indian friend from house #9 (accompanied by her brother)

Oh.....and I forgot about the dresses. AMAZING. Many of the girls made their own... some bought dresses and had to modify them for modesty. But, they were elaborate...like you'd see on the red carpet of any Hollywood awards show....but they were ALL modest.

After the promenade then the dancing music really begins. Dad wanted to stick around for a little bit of the dancing to see if they danced any differently here than they do in the US.....they don't. :)

Immediately after the dance was over at midnight they tore down the set (which they'd stayed up all night the night before setting up) so they could begin decorating for graduation. There were 130 students who graduated from Liahona High School this year. It rained quite hard in the morning, but by the time the students were lining up outside the gym to march in the sky had cleared – but it was so muggy! The graduates marched in and up on the stage of the gym where chairs were arranged for them. Their gowns were Liahona green, of course, and they looked beautiful and handsome.

Marching off stage after graduating

The valedictorian (they're called Dux here), Elizabeth Ramsey, gave a beautiful speech. She honored her parents by telling them how much she appreciated her mother's encouragement that she could work hard and get good grades, and her father's unselfish willingness to rise early each morning so he could go fishing and provide income so they could afford her education. She said she hoped that from now on he would not have to spend his days being tired from rising early to take care of her, that she could now help take care of her family.

Elizabeth Ramsey after graduation - bedecked with leis (Mom is in blue)

The entire student body sang two songs. These Tongans can sing!!

The Tongans (well, Polynesians) love to give leis. It's traditional that after the graduation ceremony all the graduates go outside, find a spot, and well wishers come and show their love for the graduates by decorating them with leis. There are all kinds of leis, too......flower leis, money leis, candy leis, ribbon leis. Some of the students get so piled with leis they can barely see over the top of them. Then they have to start putting them on their arms, or at their feet.

We wandered around watching in amazement at the elaborate set ups where families had placed mats on the ground for the graduates to stand on, or had erected tents with signs congratulating a specific graduate. Just like at home, extended family were also present. Many from Hawaii or the US...and, of course, from all over the islands. I'm sure houses all over the islands were bursting at the seams with extra bodies.

Vaesiu, Celia ('Ota's Mom), 'Ota (Roy ('Ota's dad and Vaesiu's brother)

Then after all of that, some of the graduates host a dance for all their friends and family. We attended a dance for 'Ota Tupou, daughter of our good friends here, Roy and Celia Tupou, from Te'ekiu. Roy is Vaesiu Tupou's brother. Vaesiu is our very good friend from Juneau, and sister-in-law to Pres. Tupou. I think the dance was originally going to be outside, but it had been raining on and off all day, so it got moved into the gym at the chapel in Te'ekiu. At one end was a covered dias with chairs covered with a mat. This is where 'Ota and her two friends (who were the guests of honor) sat. On either side of the dias were white covered cloth covered chairs, with large green bows where honored guests sat. Part way through the dance large platters full of candy were passed around to all the guests. We finally made our farewells about 10:00, since we turn into pumpkins about that time, and the dance was still going strong.

Vaesiu, being Vaesiu, and being 'Ota's aunt, spent months preparing for 'Ota's graduation by making leis, planning a graduation dance, and shipping three (yes THREE) large 8' x 4' containers with things she would need for 'Ota's graduation festivities. There were leis, and leis, and leis. I don't know how many, but a LOT....maybe a hundred or so. And candy. I didn't ask, but one of the containers may have been ONLY candy. And, of course, she brought not only 'Ota's dress, which she made, but two or three others she made for some of 'Ota's friends. Graduation is a very big deal here in Tonga!!

Graduation was Friday. Saturday we went to the beach – for a few hours anyway. We headed back early so Garth could make sure a projector had been set up and was working for Pres. Tupou to do his training at the Matahau stake conference. I knew I still had a few hours before I needed to start getting ready for the evening session of conference, so I was taking things easy...that is until I opened my pantry and found an ant infestation. I pulled out several of the food items that were in sealed bags, and then sprayed the heck out of that closet with Permethrin. Killed those ants instantly. I sprayed the floor, too, and then stepped where I'd sprayed, so I wanted to shower right away. Good thing I did. I hadn't been out of the shower more than a few minutes when Sister Tupou called me. She had just received a text from Pres. Tupou, that the evening session was going to start at 5:00....not 7:00 like we thought...and that WE (members of the Tongan Mission) were on the program....singing! Surprise, surprise! And only 30 minutes to get ready! Our trusted accompanist was still at the beach, and unavailable by phone, so Pres. And Sister Tupou, Garth and I gathered around the piano and while Lori played we sang one of our favorite songs we've learned since coming to Tonga....Thy Will Be Done.

After a great stake conference, we were invited for some “light refreshments”. Light refreshments in Tonga is not cookies and punch. Light refreshments in Tonga is a feast. There was breadfruit, taro, plantains, ufi, kumala, puaka (roast pig), lupulu and lusipi (beef and/or lamb cooked in coconut milk, onions and wrapped in taro leaves and cooked in the umu, or underground oven), feke (octopus cooked in coconut milk), chicken, fish (several different kinds), and, of course, fai kakai (little dumplings made from tapioca flour and cooked in a caramel sauce) for dessert.

Then on Sunday several of the senior missionaries attended the Sunday session of the Matahau stake. Garth was asked to speak...and he showed off a little by bearing his testimony in Tongan. They had provided head sets and a translator for all us palangi's. It was wonderful to be able to understand what was being said. All of us were also seated on the stand behind the stake presidency, because the stake president wanted his members to see who the senior missionaries were. The entire meeting was about "Hastening the Work" and encouraging members to be more involved in missionary work, working in conjunction with the missionaries. Their stake baptismal goal this year was 70, which they reached the weekend of conference. Their goal for next year is 210.....triple this year's goal. And I expect they will get it. President Neiafu is a great stake president.

And, of course, after conference we were invited for lunch. Here's what we ate.....

Roast suckling pig, lupulu, yam, taro, fish, shrimp, potato salad, watermelon, pineapple, raw fish mixed with tomatoes, onions and coconut milk, sausages, teriyaki beef.....and things I can't even remember. Needless to say, I'm not eating anything for the next week!!!

Catching Up - Part 2 - My Dad's Here!!!!

So.......My Dad's Here!!!! He arrived November 9 (Sarah's Birthday – Happy Birthday youngest daughter of mine!)

What a fun day. He got here at 3:00 in the afternoon. At the airport here in Tongatapu, you can go upstairs over where you check in and over Customs, and look out over the tarmac. There are no jetways in Tonga. The planes come in, stairs are rolled out, and all passengers have to walk on the tarmac into the airport. Which is really cool, because the observation deck is open air and you can not only see the people getting off the plane, but you can yell at them :) Which, of course, is what we did when Dad got here. Several of the senior missionaries were at the airport to greet him. We all stood on the observation deck watching for him. Then a man in a suit, white cowboy hat, and cowboy boots exited the front plane door.....It was Dad. I hollered at him.....”ELDER BERGERRRRRR!!!!” He stopped, looked up, put down his carry-on bag and waved to us. Then all the other missionaries hollered at him. It was so fun.

Then we had to wait...and wait....and wait...while he went through Customs. He FINALLY made it through and I got to give him a great big hug.

A little blurry, but Dad finally coming out of customs

Elder Aland, who is also a cowboy, said “I like him already!” He also said the next mission he goes on is going to be as a service missionary so he can wear his cowboy hat.

The Webb's - Dad's next door neighbors

The boots didn't last long, though. By the next day or so he was wearing his Keen's. It's too hot for shoes here. And, by the third day he was wearing his “skirt” (tupenu).

He discovered what all the other guys here discovered...... “skirts” are WAAAY cooler than pants! He's been wearing a tupenu ever since.

The first day he needed a little help with his kafa (the tie that holds the ta'ovala – mat – on), and Elder Makasini was kind enough to lend his expert help. Dad's been here all of 10 days now, and he's able to get his tupenu, ta'ovala and kafa on all by himself. I'm still tying Garth's ta'ovala on!!!

But, we discovered you can take the cowboy out of the country, but you can't take the country out of the cowboy.....or something like that.

Dad's been very busy since he got here. He's had to learn to drive on the wrong side of the road, shift gears with his left hand (in reverse order, no less), and maneuver on narrow roads used by vehicles, pedestrians, dogs, pigs and chickens. He's also having to find his way around this island transporting missionaries all over. Only the zone leaders have cars...so when missionaries need transported, someone has to drive them......That's when Elder Berger gets a call.

Dad got here on a Saturday, and the following Friday he was picking up missionaries all over the island and bringing them to a fireside with Elder Hallstrom, one of the presidents of the Seventy. Elder Hallstrom was assigned to reorganize a stake in Mu'a (a village here on Tongatapu), but wanted to do a special fireside with the missionaries while he was here. So, Friday afternoon all the missionaries on Tongatapu gathered in the Navu stake center (pronounced Nauvoo – named after the City Beautiful) and listened to Elder and Sister Hallstrom for two hours. It was wonderful. The missionaries on the islands of Ha'apai and Vava'u were able to go to stake centers near them and watch and listen. We were able to send the signal to Salt Lake, who put it up on the satellite. Unfortunately, the six missionaries we have in the Niua's were not able to watch or listen, because we just don't have the capabilities to broadcast there yet. But, President Tupou has already talked to the area office about getting a satellite in Niuatoputapu and Niuafo'ou so church meetings can be broadcast to the chapels there. What a wonderful blessing that would be for the saints there.

Front row: 1st and 2nd counselors in mission presidency. Second row: Elder and Sister Tukuafu (just released as mission president and now serving as area authority seventy), Elder and Sister Hallstrom, Sister Tupou, President Tupou, Paul, Jesse and Thomas. Third and fourth rows: Senior missionaries. The rest - all the missionaries on the island of Tongatapu.

Sister Tupou and I have been teaching the elders two mission songs – both of them Sally DeFord songs (Thank you Sally DeFord) - “Arise and Shine Forth” (a great missionary song) and “A Believer's Prayer” (another beautiful missionary song). The first line in “A Believer's Prayer” is “Father in Heaven, teach me, I pray, to walk as thy witness on earth.” I know other missions have missionaries who walk....but literally EVERY missionary here in Tonga walks. Miles and miles each day proclaiming the truthfulness of the Gospel. You could hear their testimonies ringing in their voices as they sang this song. And you should have heard them sing “Arise and Shine Forth.” I wish I could have recorded it. They raised the roof!!! What wonderful missionaries we have.

Of course...Tonga IS the best mission in the world!!! :)

Saturday we took Dad to the beach. The tide was out, so we were able to walk all the way to the break. We gathered shells, got a little sunburned, but overall had an enjoyable time. And of course, Dad was dressed in his P-Day clothes - his onesie!!! Yes, he brought it.

Dad, the Aland's and the Meyer's out at the break

Elder Aland and Dad getting surprised by a wave :)

Napping under the palms

Catching Up - Part 1

OK...It's been a while. So.....here's Catching Up Part 1. What a month. I finally had to start keeping notes so by the time I got around to blogging I wouldn't forget what had happened. And SOOOO much has happened.

Let's start with the Primary Children's Program.

Liahona 2nd ward primary - all dressed in white for the Primary Sacrament Program

Aren't they just adorable? I wish I could have recorded them singing. They knew all the songs, and sang so well. And their talks were amazing. Such testimonies those children have. I especially loved the song, “When I am Baptized.” The lyrics are:

I like to look for rainbows whenever there is rain

And ponder on the beauty of an earth made clean again.
I want my live to be as clean as earth right after rain.
I want to be the best I can and live with God again.

I know when I am baptized my wrongs are washed away,

And I can be forgiven and improve myself each day.
I want my life to be as clean as earth right after rain.
I want to be the best I can and live with God again.

They sang the last line....”I want to be the BEST I can....” with LOTS of stress on Best. It made me think....I do want to be the best I can so I can live with Heavenly Father again. These little children with their beautiful singing brought the spirit to our sacrament meeting and reminded the adults, in simple language, of what is most important, reminded us of God's plan for us, that he loves us and wants us to return to live with Him again.

A picture of the parents taking pictures of their kids...And yes, that's Garth right in the middle :)

We had transfer day October 21-22. We had four missionaries leave, and 13 arrive (three of those are missionaries awaiting visas to Papua New Guinea and Australia).
 

We also had a couple arrive – the Alands. We've already put Sister Aland to work helping out with music for firesides, etc. Yea!!!!

Sister Meyers (L) and Sister Aland (R)

She and Sister Meyers are also teaching piano lessons (in all their spare time) to some of the children in the Ha'akame stake. The first week they had seven children, and in the few weeks since they started the numbers have grown to about 13 or 14...some of them are young children 7-10 years old, and some are teenagers and young adults. They now have enough students they're having to split the class!!! The goal is to give the students enough background that they can begin playing simple hymns and primary songs in church. And as motivation to keep them practicing, we've applied for the Harmon Grant which gives each student who has a music calling in their ward a keyboard of their

very own to keep in their home so they can practice and fulfill their calling. We have 8 pianos coming currently, and likely that many more in the next few months. We need more piano teachers!!!! to come help teach in other stakes. Any takers? :)

We had a WONDERFUL rain storm the end of October. You can always tell when it's going to rain because the air gets heavy. I mean HEAVY!! You feel like you're sucking in air through a straw it's so thick, and when you get out of the shower in the morning you immediately have to shower again. Your clothes stick to you, and it's SOOOO warm and  humid. You feel like you're in a sauna. Then the clouds begin to move in and the sky gets gray. The animals must go into hiding because there are no chickens clucking, no birds singing, and no dogs fighting. Then all of a sudden the skies let loose. One minute it's dry, and the next there are puddles inches deep. It's amazing. And the people all come outside. The kids play slip and slide in their yards, the older kids and some adults grab their soap and shampoo and get a warm shower....Seriously!!! Everyone's outside. It can rain for just a few minutes, or rain all day.  The storm the end of October was not only rain...it was windy, too. And noisy!!!! It was so loud you couldn't carry on a conversation. We, of course, had to run outside with our phones and film the storm. It blew so hard that we had to close the louvers on the windows because the wind was whipping through our hall way and knocking the pictures off the walls and slamming all the doors. We hunkered down and enjoyed being inside.

And, of course, we've entered cyclone season now. We may be due for a bad one this year. Apparently it's been several years since a really bad cyclone. Glad we're in the middle of the island. We've been talking about our emergency plan. The power company turns off all power several days before the cyclone's expected to hit so there are no live electrical wires dangling from power poles during the storm. They say during the last cyclone people didn't leave their homes for five days because the winds were so terrible. Do I want to say I've survived a cyclone or not? Hmmmm......